DOC gives the Rangitoto Summit Track as 7 km (4.3 miles), two hours return, with 250 m (820 ft) of climbing. It is graded “easy to intermediate” – which says nothing about the surface: rough, uneven volcanic rock, loose slippery scree, and almost no shade on hot days.
The track starts at Rangitoto Wharf under a waharoa, a carved gateway representing the ancestor Peretū. After that it runs almost level at first, through the largest pōhutukawa forest in the world – and again and again, right beside it, lies the thing the forest grows on: broken black lava nobody would want to walk across. The two surfaces meet edge to edge, with the gravel path down the middle.
Forty-five minutes in, the Lava Caves Track branches off to the right: 500 m (0.3 miles), 15 minutes, into natural tunnels left by one of Rangitoto's eruptions. Without a flashlight they stay a dark hole. DOC describes them as dark, with low ceilings, jagged rock and uneven floors – duck your head, keep children close, and do not climb on the rock inside, which is unstable.
Just below the summit is the viewing platform over the crater: a hollow about 60 m (200 ft) deep, completely grown over with pōhutukawa and rewarewa. From there the Crater Rim Track loops around in 20 minutes and 850 m (0.5 miles), past remains of the military installations. Two minutes further on you stand at the summit lookout at 260 m (853 ft), with seating and a historic fire control post – and the city on the other side of the water.
On hot days the detour over Wilson's Park Track pays off: an hour instead of half of one, 1.4 km (0.9 miles), but in the shade. The black lava floor radiates the sun back, and DOC warns explicitly of “very hot temperatures, especially in summer”.